Artisan Crafts Week
Hello everyone! I was invited to participate in Artisan Crafts Week and decided to write an article about cross-stitching. Why? I'd like to provide what I wish I had when starting out: A comprehensive ‘how to’ with some pro-tips snuck in.
Don’t be fooled, stitching is a hobby anyone can start and man, can people make some pretty amazing things! Lately it has grown in popularity, so now is a great time to learn. So without further ado, please enjoy.
So, what is Cross-Stitching?
It is a form of sewing that uses counted thread embroidery to create beautiful designs from patterns. The name refers to one of the types of stitches you can use, an X-stitch, as you are making an X with the thread as you go.
Fun Fact: It is the oldest form of embroidery that we know of and pieces can be found from all over the world!
Cool! What are the Materials you need to get started?
1. Pattern
You can’t do much without a plan, so you’re going to need a chart. There are many available to choose from. You purchase a pre-packaged pattern with everything necessary included for you (at the store/online) or buy only the pattern online (Etsy has a whole section for it). There are also TONS of free downloadable patterns that people have made.
Can’t find what you want? No problem! Make your own and show it off to the world using graph paper or with a computer program! I'm currently learning how to use PC Stitch which is a purchasable software designed to help you make your own patterns. There are many others both free and paid; I recommend research to find out what works best for you.
2. Fabric
There are different types of fabric used by stitchers: Aida, Linens, Even Weave, Hardanger, Canvas, Perforated Paper, Specialty Fabrics; each with pros and cons. The most common/popular is Aida, which is what I recommend you start with.
Fabric comes in many different colors and textures. While I haven't attempted this, you can also dye or paint over some cloths to create unique designs.
All are categorized by thread count: threads per inch (usually ranging from 11 count to 40 count; my favorite is 18 count Aida). This is important because the count of the fabric determines the size of the finished stitch. Smaller squares mean a smaller image.
3. Thread
Like fabric, there are many brands of thread to choose from. You have your cotton and your metallic, but don’t forget the wool yarn and rayon! Point being: depending on your pattern, you may require different threads to get the job done.
You want thread that has multiple stands (for DMC a cord has 6), so you can pull as many as the pattern requires.
Typically two is the norm, but they can ask for more and it can be advantageous to have extra for coverage (more on that later).
You want thread that has multiple stands (for DMC a cord has 6), so you can pull as many as the pattern requires.
Typically two is the norm, but they can ask for more and it can be advantageous to have extra for coverage (more on that later).
4. Needles/Scissors/Threader
Due to the size of the holes in your fabric, specific sets of needles are required when stitching. Too big and you can stretch the fabric out. They are called tapestry or embroidery needles and a good rule of thumb is this: The higher your Aida cloth count, the thinner your needle should be.
Scissors, or some form of sharp object is nice to have for cutting your thread. A threader does what it sounds like: it threads a needle for you. You don’t need this, but it is certainly helpful.
5. Hoops/Snaps
To prevent the material from warping as you stitch, it is helpful to have something keeping it taught while you work. Enter the hoop/snaps. They come in different sizes and shapes (think circle vs square for the hoops). You can also use the hoops to store the finished project.
Alright, got it! How do I start?
First things first, let’s have a look at the pattern. We’ll use one that I made with PC stitch. Feel free to make this your first! It was designed with the intent of using Aida cloth and DMC thread.
Fantastic.
A pattern’s grid mimics the grid created by your cloth. So, each square equals one square on your cloth, filled with something or not.
1. This is counted cross stitch, and patterns can get big. Multiple pages big. To keep everything organized every ten squares will be a number letting you know how far you are in the stitch. The one currently pointed at is ‘ten’ boxes in.
It is very important to measure out the size of your pattern compared to how much material you have using these so that you do not come too close to the edge (it can warp your picture) or run out of material entirely.
One way to help keep yourself oriented is to make your own ‘boxes’ with thread or washable pencil on your cloth. This is optional; I don’t personally do it, but it can be a pain to have to remove all your work if you are off a few stitches.
2. The Legend lets you know what colors the pattern creator wants you to use and, if the pattern uses symbols, which symbols correspond to which color. It can also tell you how many threads of that color to use if it isn’t the typical two and if the thread will be used for a specific kind of stitch (such a back stitching or for French knots).
3. Each square is equivalent to one full stitch on the pattern, and as said above, this is one square on your cloth. Therefore when using a color, all you need to do is count the squares to know how many stitches in any certain direction you need to go.
4. The arrows on the sides of your pattern help to show you where the center of your work is. It is common practice to begin your stitch in the center of the design in the center of the fabric. I actually have one stitch in the center of this pattern to help with visualizing.
Next let’s talk about the types of stitches you can have. There are a variety of specialty stitches you can explore but the main ones are as follows:
1. The full stitch (or cross stitch) is the most common and main stitch in your arsenal. It is the stitch. Represented by a full square on patterns, you create it by stitching two half stitches over each other. Love it. Cherish it. Take it out to dinner by stitching it onto a napkin.
2. The half stitch is used mostly for details and aesthetic purposes. It can be used in the background, to outline, etc. These are not ‘bound’ by the square, able to go up and down as well as diagonal to make rounder shapes. A valuable tool to be sure.
3. The quarter/fourth stitch is a half stitch cut in half. While the thread will exit the hole, it will reenter the fabric in the middle of the square. Used for texture and smaller details, be careful to sew them evenly and precisely so they enter the square in the right area.
4. The three-fourths/three-quarter stitch is a half stitch and quarter stitch combined. Like the half and fourth, it is used in details and to add curves to the work (less blocky more flowy).
5. The petite stitch is a full stitch but a fourth of the size. This one takes practice as due to the size, it is easily messed up. It isn’t too common, but important enough in my opinion to be included.
The time has come. Let’s put that thread into the fabric.
1. After pulling the thread through the first hole, pass it through the second hole in the square that is directly diagonal to it. Pull until it is snug against the fabric but don’t let the thread’s tail slip past the eye of the needle.
With the first half stitch complete, start the second by pushing the needle through the hole directly above the one you last entered. Pull until tight, then enter the final hole in the square. Congratulations, you have made one full stitch. Continue as far as the pattern directs, ensuring that the thread pattern is the same direction with every stitch.
2. With a row, you will sew multiple half stitches as far as the pattern directs, all going in the same direction. Once you reach your stopping point, return across the row completing the full stitches until reaching the first stitch again.
For the other types of stitches this logic can be followed as well with the obvious adjustments to match the shape (for example, don’t complete the row and you suddenly have a row full of half stitches, yay!).
3. When you are almost out of thread and need a new piece or you have to change colors, take your needle and slide it under the completed stitches (at least four) to secure the thread and make sure it doesn’t unravel. For extra security I sometime tie a knot around the last completed stitch I go under. Then trim the thread so it is out of the way.
Finally, remember earlier when I mentioned coverage? Depending on how many threads you use and the colors present in the thread and fabric, you may not ‘cover’ the fabric enough, and easily see it. This is not always flattering. The best example I could find of this comes from here who demonstrates very well what it looks like: This is 14 count Aida (blue) and 11 count Aida (pink) with increasing amounts of thread:
Big difference yeah? While a pattern may tell you to use a certain amount of thread, depending on what you want the end result to look like, the thread count and Aida size are important and sometimes necessary to alter.
So, a lot here. If you feel uncomfortable starting right away, practice first with spare cloth and thread before working on your piece.
Final Thoughts: Man, I wish I had known that…
You have a pattern, your tools, some basic know-how, and the willingness to try something new; you are ready to go! Before you click away, here are a few extra things I've learned along the self-taught path:
1. Your first attempt probably won’t turn out the way you want...
And that’s ok! You’re learning, this is something new. Like any craft, you need to work at it to become more comfortable. I don’t have a picture of my very first stitch (thank goodness), but this is one of the earliest.
She isn’t the best. There’s a lot that was done incorrectly. But I made it. You get better, and the excitement of finishing bigger and more complex projects is wonderful. Here’s a much more recent one (more than a decade later). I think it’s pretty neato.
2. GIVE YOURSELF SPACE
She says as she flips the table she is currently sitting at.
I learned this the hard way. While obvious in retrospect, my inexperienced brain decided that I would start right at the beginning of the cloth I bought. Waste not, want not right? Nope. Remember how I mentioned warping and centering earlier? Yeah, I had to cover some of the pattern with the frame’s matting to hide the warping and save my skin. Always purchase enough cloth so that you have a ‘border’ of excess material. AND COUNT YOUR SPACES. Important enough to say twice guys.
One (usually) can’t throw their creation in the wash, only gently soaking and spot cleaning them. Make sure to wash your hands and work space to get rid of excess oil and/or other ick before you start to save your design from future fading and staining. You’ll be putting hours into the craft, and it would stink to lose all that progress to a pizza spot.
4. Stitch in one direction and in between strands (even only)
“But I’m just making an X,” you say. “Why does it matter?” Great question! It helps with uniformity and overall smoothness to the finished product. Think of it like icing on the cake. Yeah, you don’t need to, but it sure does make it look nicer, especially if you have half-stitches in the background. If you return to my princess crown image, you'll notice a failure of uniformity among the mistakes.
Second, when using more than one thread piece, the strands can twist together which also does not look very good. Referring to the earlier steps, when finishing the full stitch, slide your needle in between the strands so they end up smooth on the Aida, side by side. This is known as the railroad stitch. Prettier and better coverage. I've never looked back.
5. Back stitching is not required but is certainly worth the effort
Look at these two images. Ignoring the wrinkles and color difference, which one do you like more?
Some people don’t like back-stitching, while others consider the pattern incomplete without it. I’ve been on both sides of the fence, so I understand the reasoning for doing it or not. All it is is providing a piece with details: text, to give an outline, a 3D effect (using more than one thread piece), etc. In the end, it’s up to you.
6. Don’t worry about the back of the stitch
So, you finished your piece. It looks good, then you turn it around and someone has thrown up yarn on your cloth while you weren’t looking. Don’t worry. No one is going to look at the back of your completed project. Let it be ugly. Exception is if you want a neat back or are working with very sheer fabric, then good luck, I have yet to achieve such a feat.
Mamma mia!
7. Be gentle with your thread and it will thank you
When you are stitching, yes you want a tight X, but don’t pull so hard that you squeeze the cloth underneath. You want it snug against the Aida, not in a death grip. This will mess up the overall look as well. Like many things in life, there is too much (death grip), too little (too loose), and just right (snug).
8. Contrasting colors is key when choosing cloth
Cream backing with white thread isn’t as pretty as you would think. When choosing colors, make sure that the choices are complementary. Navy on black will not be as nice (or visible for that matter) as red on black. Of course there are exceptions but overall this is a good rule to follow.
9. Talk to other stitchers!
I started young, so it wasn’t until college that I really discovered stitching groups and tutorials. A bunch exist on da, tumblr, Facebook, you name it. People are sharing their creations, asking for advice, and telling you where to go get some good thread deals. I learned mainly through trial and error, you don’t have to. Don’t be afraid to hop in, we like helping (would I be making this if I didn’t?). There are plenty of how-tos like this one, all you need to do is search for them.
10. Stay Organized
When you really get into the craft, you’ll find you have piles of thread, cloth, needles, patterns, the list goes on. Invest in bobbins to wrap your thread, boxes or drawers to store materials in, and a binder for patterns. It helps to keep everything neat and easy to find, especially considering how many different shades of a single color exist. Send help.
11. Everyone does things a little differently
Finally, everything I’ve told you here I don’t necessarily do.
For example:
- I hate working with hoops, only occasionally using them for the finished product.
- I prefer certain brands for cloth and thread even though I listed a bunch
- I don’t grid my cloth out (or start in the center for that matter)
- I don’t sew the edges of my cloth, though, it is a good idea if the cloth frays very easily
- I work with a single color at a time (this is known as cross country. The opposite is parking: completing a page at a time if your pattern is many pages long)
- I bend the rules when it comes to cleaning and ironing (risky, so don’t copy me here folks).
Understand the basics, the proper ‘forms’, and then be free. You can look up most anything if you have questions.
You’re spending your time creating, make what you want and don’t let others stifle you. Don’t like the recommended color? Change it! Rather use 16 count than 14? Go nuts! Want to frame it instead of using a hoop? More power to you!
I hope this helped you out. There’s a lot I didn’t mention, but if I talked about everything, this would never end. I look forward to seeing a slew of posts from new stitchers! Comment if you have any questions
Stay Awesome,
Ryardn
